Thursday, 30 September 2010

Stuff and nonsence

Did a ace new traverse the other day, went on it cleaned it, worked the moves realised I was on redpoint and did it with a dab. Not bad 7c-7c+ maybe, it was getting cold and the rest of the team had trainers on ready to leave. I decided to leave it and go back, confident of a quick send. Rest day followed by a return visit cleaned some other stuff and worked the dab bit, chuck the mat away extra clearance you don't hit the ground. Start to try to link it, nails, absolutely desperate 4 hours of tweaks and sorting it out before finally doing it. 8a for sure. The question is which impression was right, if my second day on it was my first day then I wouldn't question the fact it was an 8, but it wasn't. Was it because on day one I was all keen and excited whereas day 2 was basically sorting out a technicality. Was it because day one was preceded by 2 rest days day 2 only 1? Who can tell, certainly not me. Fortunately I have time to decide cos I want to go back up there and do some more before spilling the beans. This is the stuff, the nonsense is my 16th session on project x, 3 years of occasional goes this year the progress can be measured by crux 1 easy, foot moves still impossible crux 2 take a hand off everything explodes, but I can now pull on off a single mat. Last year I needed a stack to pull into the position, progress, but painfully slow progress.

Thursday, 23 September 2010


I have put the Kryptonite (rope) back in the cupboard and went out to the Pass the other day. Bouldering is great. I managed to get through most of Malcs Start the other day with a small push on the crux to re learn it all, think this will go this season and am really excited by that. It was good to be out in the cold, conditions were great. After a few sessions being weak I felt good in the mill and campusing the other day.

Went to Raven tor and Rubicon to finish my routing, was quite good fun, getting spanked by little holds. In the end to massage my ego I had a goo at the crux section of Keen Roof and did OK. Think that climbing is defiantly mainly about putting myself in the right frame of mind to pull hard, obviously you need to be strong enough to hold the holds, but apart from that being fresh and excited by what you are trying is the key. I lost my camera somewhere so no pictures for a while, gutted.

Speaking of gutted it seems to me that the pinch on Jerry's roof and the edge on Bus stop/Mr fantastic have both grown and become more positive, while it is possible that this is because they get cleaned and climbed on a lot more, it also seems possible that someone couldn't wait to get stronger. Last year there was some definite improvement of a couple of holds up at Moel Y Gest, as the pictures below show. So basically keep your eyes open for anything else and in the unlikely event of it being you then stop it.

The Crimp (that you shouldn't use anyway, have you not seen the pinch!) on Beatitudes Kiss,

A foothold, think this was on Life Aestthetic but could be wrong.