Friday, 15 October 2010

Corridors of Power

Been looking at this one for some time now. Few years ago tried it and failed to move this year went back and manged to sort the sit down section out quickly, helped by one of those rare occasions when a small hold breaks and leaves a bigger one. After building up the landing and working the top section on a shunt, not so much because its high more because the landing is a raising slab behind you. By the time I had finished rolling round rocks and stuff I was able to jump of all but the last move, fortunately that wasn't too hard just wiggy. Anyway after a foiled visit in the rain I had ditched 5 pads up there so was confident that I would bounce. The original crux was the top section off a mono, then it crumbled a bit and became possible to get two fingers in. Again this was fortunate as it took it down by a good grade or so, all in all I have lost any idea how hard stuff is so basically I guess its in the region of 8A, more of a sustained ride then a particular crux move.

Friday, 8 October 2010


Well its here cool weather and time for brushes and patios. Did a nice new line last week at about 8a, and have built a landing and worked the first half of another one. The second line was really pleasing as its something I have tried before and been spanked on. This time round I could pull and the sequence is great. Stashed my pads up there so hopefully will do it next week, depends on how hard the top move is, went up with a rope and shunt defiantly the easiest way to wire something when you are out by yourself I recon. Unfortunately it was seeping and started to rain. Guess Autumn has some drawbacks. Apart from that have a new campus board at work, and been milling it up quite a bit.