Monday, 16 May 2011

I must be one of the few who were glad to see the rain, every time i saw anyone in the sunny weather they ask that same question you been out at all? I was training in the Mill and the Indy so that when cold weather comes back I will pull the rock down around me crushing it to tiny slivers of diamonds, but that's not really an answer is it. I started to get used to slightly pitying looks as though i have missed the point. The point is sweating sliding and being eaten by insects does not make for a good time as far as I am concerned. Instead I have been hanging around in a very quiet dusty old mill falling off. Its quiet in there at the moment no electricity, so no lights and no radio, but gains are coming slowly, and this is good. Most of April I was working on the system problems on the 30 degree board now I have moved over to the newly systems 50 degree
board. Its tricky at the moment as I don't really know the problems yet so have little concept of a good or bad session. Fortunately I have made good gains on the campus and finger boards, so i take this as meaning I am moving in the right direction. Occasionally I go too the centre of the 50 board to try some normal problems, progress is being made towards my Mill 7c goal, I think the first one to go will be Danny's Foetal Recall, unfortunately this is 7b+/7c so wont do at all.

I did go for a short play outside to make sure I remembered what rock feels like, the one session at Jerry's was funny as all the holds felt weired and bumpy not like smooth wood at all. This time I went to check out Dyers Barotrauma. I can only say that I think it may be a bit morpho...

Anyway that's all, and all there is likely to be for a while as I cant be arsed to write about how I pulled on cunt and em, reached to liquid and jumped to beauty before trying to slap brute and drop into Brutus and jump for 9 bar (possible mill 7c/+) anymore than you can be arsed to read about it.

When I returened from a mercy trip to the shop (tobbacco for me chocolate for fatty), Doylo had been playing with my camera, not sure why but he would appear to think I want a picture of his pubes so I thought I would share that with you all.

Thursday, 5 May 2011


In the end i managed to get the footage sorted, or at least as sorted as it is going to get. For some reason I had to split it into 2 to save it, my technophobia strikes again.

Malcs start

Went out to Jerrys Roof after being to Font, I figured that I would be strong and light and climbing well so Malcs was bound to go, setting off with a limit of 5 goes, I went up and hit the pocket on go 1, or go 61 depending which way you look at it, a good start. Four goes later I had my best attempt so far. I hit the porthole square and swung out back in and a flashbulb in my head went fuckfuckwowwow, then my right hand slipped off the starting hold on Pools all this took no time at all but I was happy, obviously I had a few more goes but to no avail my window of opportunitty had opened and closed before I could get through.

Yesterday I treated myself to a nice day out as I am resting from the mill for 10 days between training 1 and training 2. The original plan had been to just go running and do core stuff but it was far too dull so I went out, problem this time seems that

A) The mill footholds are too big, outside felt very strange.
B) The 4 days of hammering my core meant my lower back was fucked.

So the upshot was I took a little step backwards and the weather is not going to give that many days of nice temps before the summer monsoon season comes to Wales. Ultimatley this is fine I have no real intention of punishing myself outside in the heat with the midges this year, so its back to the Mill with a saw to make some new small slippy wooden footholds.