This week I went back to a old time line I wanted to do. It doesn't get much more roadside than this, as you drive down the Ogwen from Bethesda to Capel there is a big lip on the right. I first looked at it when I was doing a delivery in the Holland Arms van, so at the latest that is 2003. It took a few years to make any headway on it. Mainly as we only ever seemed to try it when the weather was dubious or we had been on the razz and failed to walk any further. There are 2 or 3 happy sessions on it that I remember then one shit one unfortunately it was the shit one that I remember most as this is when I did it. This hasn't happened to me before that I remember, normally its great to succeed but this week I just could not give a fuck. I think its because:
- I only went as far as the groove, climbed up till I was stood up and got a jug and then jumped down again.
- The full line carries on up the lip and onto the slab, I know it does and I didn't climb it.
So there we go, a shit day with success, weird huh?
Then I went to Crafnant, where Jack got the First ascent of his problem the Ratt Roof, I was glad that he made it after 2 years of injury or rain, he had spent a good few hours cleaning this on the first visit up there and I was encoraged by the fact that sometimes people will still stay off lines that others have put the time into.
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=563
Photo - Si Panton
Spiderman Turned up and did Special K, Grasswinds and Cruela, he agreed with me that Special K was the hardest. Guess he must be shit too, although he did say he wouldn't use knees as they might tear his suit, I offered to lend him the knee pad but he muttered about a point of aid and refused to talk to me after that. Although upon my return I would have to admit it is easier than I thought, especially with the extra foothold that has been cleaned at the start.