Just when you think it will never be sunny again the weather turns and life seems so much better with a bit of sun on your back. Its been a while since my last post but in short buying a new house and playing Dad have been taking over as number one priority. On his first walk in August sometime, James spotted a roof in the trees near Betws Y Coed. He went goo arghhh and pointed into the forest, myself I was doubtful as I had examined the area a few times over the last 10 years but to show faith in the little one I followed where he was pointing and was rewarded with a lovely boulder. Its a little bit of magic wood in Wales but not granite obviously As I walked over to it I repeated again and again please let there be holds in that roof please have a starting jug, pleases have holds, and it did.
It was summer at this point so it was a midge hell hole, I covered myself in deet and started the process, It was always too hot but the moves got done, and after a midnight session with Jack I was ready to link it. At this point it was clear I needed it to be colder so I waited for the winter and sure enough then came the rain and a fucked elbow, then more rain. It takes 3 days to dry out as its so sheltered and has a run off on to the top holds. So in short I was getting nowhere.
January comes and we find a new house once this goes through there will be no more days off till its been done up. Loo king down the barrel of a few months with no outside climbing I set about a quick fix of training in the indy and at the mill. Confident or at least desperate that the good weather of Febuary would come again this year. And it did, so I got to climb it. Brilliant.
Gradewise, I really don't know could be anything from 7b+ to 8a. I would be surprised if it was either end, so I will settle for 7c/+. But I could very easily be wrong.