Sunday, 13 September 2009

Out and About

Been out and about a bit the last few weeks, went to the new bloc in Beddgelert woods a few times. This is an example of Pantons brave new world of link ups. This time we have all be instructed how the naming system works and are in the process of filling it up with as many variations as possible. Did the first ascent of a couple of good up lines and have been all over the traverses in an attempt to get a bit fitter. The best thing I have done is the stand start to the left of the arete, which became Water. This is highly morpho but very cool, pulling on with a foot at waist level and wide apart pinchy undercuts before rocking into the bulge and standing up to the top. Si did attempt to tell me I couldn't start there as it was too dependent on reaching that high with a foot. I did it anyway, I don't really see any reason to start artificially lower in order to make it the same for others, after all its not like I am using holds out of reach for my hands just a high foothold. Besides there is still the sitter to be linked in although i think this will probably change the whole sequence and the cool rockover will be defunct.

Here is a link to the pages, with some photos of Water.

I have left the Cromlech alone at the moment as a summer of changeable weather seems to have meant most of my sessions have been up there. I fell of the end of the Scoop traverse there and back, and Sub Society over the last few weeks. Think this is a good sign for the coming winter as Sub Society is one of those problems I never expect to ever do as it is too crimpy, so i don't try it, this of course is the quickest way to make sure you don't do something!

Here is some footage of Scoop Traverse and The Sting.


  1. Would be keen to know where you feet were when you pull on to Water Dave.

    I did the line using a high flat RH sidepull on the arete and a wide left hand sidepull-undercut but facing right and pasting my right foot on a flat bit and squeezing till I moved. I got my left foot up on to the lip and kinda pivoted to face left again and match my feet before crossing over to the crescent with RH, matching and then the top. Felt a lot easier than starting with LF above waist height and pulling straight into a rockover!

    It's a great problem which needs a link from Black Spot I reckon.

  2. Sounds like the same hand holds, then pulled on with left foot on smear on nose kind of front on, then came up into higher undercut with left hand matching feet on nose getting left onto the big hold and stand up. Tried the Clear spot start into it a bit, will make it climb a lot diffrently. Quite nice rock isnt it, shame about the bog.

  3. Hey Dave, has Scoop Traverse got a set sequence? I did it the other day but before going out right to the low pocket before you cross-over up to the mono, I came up to a diagonal sloper about a foot below the lip with my left, then across to a 2 finger pocket right next to the thread-mono, before crossing under to the mono (that make sense?). Is it a bit of an eliminate or what?