Jerry's Roof

First of all I went down here last week and it was fucking horrible, the amount of tick marks and chalk rivalled the cave.  Please try to keep these lovely places at least a little bit looked after.  The majority of the ticks are pointless as you can see in the photos. Top Tip: the massive polished bits are where you put your feet, your hand goes to the next big white bit. I had gone down for a look at Worzel Gunnage  http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=518 but the mess depressed me, so I settled for brushing it and going to the mill.

Yesterday we went back out, CJD was keen for a look, after messing around to warm up by doing three point turns finding a parking space we started chucking ourselves at this after a hour or so we stopped trying to hold the swing on the first move and started to move feet up,  He was using the same method as Rich Ames, I opted to keep my left hand low and only use the pinch in my right,  anyway I then got to the top, and had a blast linking it in from the start of Jerry's.  Then it rained so we went home.  It is worthwhile with very cool moves, but it is also a total eliminate there are at least 4 holds within reach that would all make it easier.    Grades wise we both thought 7c+ was fair, it seemed to me to be tricky to get everything right as opposed to butal pulling.  Doylo turned up after we left and did the first move which I thought was the crux.  He's shit so it cant be harder than 7a+.  I guess the locals will all descend once they finish tying on for the year and decide soon enough.

Some footage of the stand.