Friday, 13 April 2012

A whinge

You know those goes on your projects when you are crushing and you know you are going to do it?  They are great aren't they.  I had one on this awesome problem I have been trying in November, but I didn't do it.  I hit the lip instead of the jug and that was that, shit weather and wet days off work took over.  Five months of weather watching  and waiting later, I got back up there a few weeks back.  I was quite pleased as the problem was still doable it hadn't all gone away.  Yesterday I went back up, first go was good, second go I hit the jug, and in my surprise let go.  Third, fourth and fifth goes were too close together and shit.  Frustration set in as the sun came round blinding me on the last move, a move which is either difficult or I am doing wrong or the crimp is just a bit too small for my 80kg's.  I have crawled up this wall working the sequence as you cant try the top without climbing the bottom and skin can quickly become an issue.  5 sessions were spent trying to go left instead of right, and progress has generally been slow.

So the sixth go...  I squeaked my shoes and put my left shoe on first in a superstitious manner.  Chalked up to my elbows, cleaned the holds, waited for a big cloud bank to roll in covering the sun there was a good wind blowing straight onto the face.  Everything ready off I go, first second and third moves perfect, really pulling hard feel fucking bionic, then the key move.  Right hand goes again to a 2 finger edge, (if you get this well you can set up really well on the crimp for the top move...)  I hit it and curl my thumb over,  yes yes fucking RAH etc.  Drop in to the left hand crimp before moving feet and going for the last crimp before the jug.  Absolute fucking control, piss, feet up and get the crimp again set up perfect left foot in and up... Right foothold snaps off and I land on the ground again.

Go straight to jail, do not pass go, do not collect 200 pounds.  Gutted.

1 comment:

  1. Nice Dave, I now know I need to change the order in whch I put my boots on! We are strange creatures of habit.