Friday, 15 May 2009

On the Blog

Decided to join in the blogging, so that I too can spray random opinions and post up bully about what I have/want to have been climbing. Hopefully I will weld together wit and wisdom, but in all its far more likely to turn into whine and whinge pretty quickly.

First day off this week saw the beginning of a new obsession with the Mill. After an intensive summer last year, leading to total burnout and failure, I am determined to be more organised in my efforts this year. My first goal was to hang the 45 slopes on the Beastmaker for 30 seconds, a fine beast 8a on the training records. After warming up and recruiting I managed to do 26 seconds before slithering to the floor, this was cool as the target had been 10. Made up some nice problems on the right hand board and managed to retro flash Panton in a blender, Nine bars, and a few other Mill7a+ problems.

Hock came down to the Wales for a quick visit, so we decided to head down to the revamped Tan y Grisiau with Jack and Ian to try Flick of the Wrist, Hock dispatched this with a strange sequence all high feet and shoulders while Ian added 4 or 5 flappers to an injured finger, a case of insult to injury if ever there was one. Jack and I both made good progress before he was stumped by the last but one move, body tension/reach/fear ended it all there for the day. I managed to climb through, catch the sloper after the crux badly and failed to finish it, classic. All in all a good problem that would be awesome without the slightly encroaching block on the left.
Next day was the Caseg to take my annual spanking on Main Vein and The Groove Sitter. I find this boulder desperate at the best of times and was no different today, did manage to evolve my sequence on the Groove and think this one will go, as for Main Vein bah humbug.

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