Monday, 1 February 2010

best laid plans...

Had a nice dreamy strategy to work some outdoor projects and train on my weaknesses inside over the winter. This all started quite well with some scrubbing boulders a reset of the 30 degree board in the mill so I could start pulling on small holds instead of lanking my way up steep walls on good holds so my ego could remain intact. This brought about the first discovery, for me working my weaker points is far more effective if I am doing it alone. Everybody does stuff their own way, but I like sitting down smoking and staring at the wall totally lost in the idea that the move is hard and inching my way toward success. Nothing pisses on my bonfire like some skinny youth pissing my project and telling me how easy it is, ego, what a bitch.

Anyway projects are still around in Wales, some better than others I admit. For now though all they have to do is make me pull hard, get up in the morning and go climbing, stay straight at the weekend then they have done their job. All good so far. Then I realise the last post was at the point of redpoint for one of them, it was all nicely worked done in two, end wired start fine, a tricky tension move in the middle but confident. Then there was snow, this was ok just worked the hard bit cos it stayed dry, and carried on in the wall. Then it melted, fair enough its wet for a bit, then its rained and has been wet every time I have been off work. So I carry on in the wall and rebuild the mill and sort out the bills and real life stuff, still all ok, but you have to wonder. Its a nice enough bit of rock, cool moves and stuff, but its a locals problem at a locals crag its not going to be the best or the hardest or anything like that. Shes starting to be a multi month project, I have been to look at it 4 times in the last month and not pulled on. Still after all its not giving up that matters most I guess, the more in the more out and all that .

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