Its just 19 days short of a full 9 years since I did Jerry's Roof for the first time, this was one of my first hard problems in Wales. The first time I went out climbing we did Noah's Warning on the Cromlech and seeing the chalk on this roof, I asked what went on, but basically we didn't know. I remember driving up to work on Jerry's but seeing Jerry himself there trying Pools so running away. Higg did the first ascent of Pools in January 2001 so I must have been trying it for a while (some things never change when ambition outstrips ability). A bit later Malc came and crushed it and added his own start. I remember being blown away by the fact that he could turn up and dispatch it so quickly, guess I had a lot to learn about what being strong actually meant.
The following year I did Bus Stop, then 3 years after that I linked the 2 together in my longest (and most punterish) siege ever, to make the 2nd ascent (1st after loss of crucial foothold) of Mr Fantastic. I remember being under there just after a fairly massive relationship fail. Full of boiling hatred for the world. That was the first time my mother was diagnosed with cancer. The things bits of rock can help you deal with. Apres the successful ascent Hock and I went into Bangor for a celebration, got twatted and broke into the Union through a series of windows and back doors before popping out behind the bar, and entering the worst kind of student night ever. The following morning I was supposed to meet Al Hughes up there so he could film it, think he was used to a higher degree of professionalism than someone turning up hammered and stinking just about able to do the moves.
Later spotting Ug on it, he flew through the move to the porthole, before being unable to sort the next bit out, using the Higg sequence. If we had found the sequence that Pete used to get his foot up, I think he would probably have done it, and it could have been his first 8a and +. Although at the time he assured me it couldn't be harder than 7c+ if he could do it.
The following year I did Bus Stop, then 3 years after that I linked the 2 together in my longest (and most punterish) siege ever, to make the 2nd ascent (1st after loss of crucial foothold) of Mr Fantastic. I remember being under there just after a fairly massive relationship fail. Full of boiling hatred for the world. That was the first time my mother was diagnosed with cancer. The things bits of rock can help you deal with. Apres the successful ascent Hock and I went into Bangor for a celebration, got twatted and broke into the Union through a series of windows and back doors before popping out behind the bar, and entering the worst kind of student night ever. The following morning I was supposed to meet Al Hughes up there so he could film it, think he was used to a higher degree of professionalism than someone turning up hammered and stinking just about able to do the moves.
Later spotting Ug on it, he flew through the move to the porthole, before being unable to sort the next bit out, using the Higg sequence. If we had found the sequence that Pete used to get his foot up, I think he would probably have done it, and it could have been his first 8a and +. Although at the time he assured me it couldn't be harder than 7c+ if he could do it.
So now its my turn, I have finished off one of my main bouldering aims, and climbed one of the best hard problems in Wales. Its been a long decade of trying, lots of things have changed, people coming and going, but always I go back to that leaning block to see whats happening. The cancer is back, so there you go. There is a lot more to bouldering than ticking, sometimes you just need somewhere to hide.
Cheers to CJD who has spotted me on all these problems and has a firm belief that we are dead good at bouldering which helps. When I find the bloody lead that attatches the camera to computer ther are some photos.
Well done, Dave, you deserve your 15 minutes.
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