Monday, 9 January 2012

New Year New Psyche Old Problems

Its been a while, mainly due to the fact that its been wet so nothing interesting is happening.  Mainly I have been climbing in the Indy and the Mill, occasionally between the showers I have headed down to Jerrys roof, and a couple of trips up to the top of the Little Orme. 

At Jerrys I finally managed to stop falling off the end of Wurzel Gunnage and compleated the second asscent.  Gradewise I think soft 8a+, very similar to Mr Fantastic, however it seems that Mr F is probably going to be downgraded to 8a, so once again I am wrong/disagree. 

 The little orme spanked me on Weirdo and the broken Grass Moustashe, it was a little frustrating as I was really close to the Moustache this time last year, utilising a high foothold. This year I failed to even get the foot on and pull in, which made the move to the sloper too wild to hold. Should have tried more last year I guess, only thing I can think is I was doing about an hour of Yoga a day, cos I had quit smoking and stopped sleeping, guess this helped.

A couple of days ago a big team headed down to Porth Ysgo with a basket load of psyche to get on dry rock. Given the fact the day before I had driven down with Chris only to end up not popping out the grey into dry nice weather as so often happens but starting to walk down as raqin fell harder and harder so we just did one and went back to the Mill. Anyway I tried the little slopey prow on the far right of the beach, and it haad magically gone from no foothold to a big shelf, this made the previously nails slap far more ameanable and more 7 than 8 which was a nice suprise.
    Picture Si Panton

Like I said though mainly it been the mill.  I am about 5-6kg heavier than when we got back from Austria, I feel like my bodys adapting to this now and the only real diffrence is in catching holds, I can lock deeper, train more (13 days on and still feeling fine) jump futher and my feet dont come off as easily.  So at present I am attacking my fingers with a vengence, using the weight vest on the 30 board and starting a bit on the campus board.  If I can just trick them into getting some contact strength I can stay heavy if not I will have to start cutting down the vino and eating less which always sucks.  

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