What with shit weather and a unhealthy dose of paranoia that I will become fat and weak now I have a baby, I started to hit the boards quite a lot. In fact looking back through my book after a shit session I had been hitting the boards every day for some time. In fact I had 5 rest days in the last 53 days. And I managed to wonder why I was tired. What a prick.
So last night in the Indy after greasing off and having quite a lot of pain running through my shoulders and neck, I had a little rant and was given a crash course in finding trigger/ pressure points, and low and behold for the first time in 2 weeks I can move my head without it hurting! Its a miracle Hallelujah etc. So that's good and I will call the unplanned time on 'Conditioning' have a week of de loading before ramping up the intensity for a month, badabing, I am in a training cycle without the shit bit of building your base. Its that simple right?
After a few years of reading books, printing articles and stuff I am starting to think it might be. The thing about training is a lot of people talk about it, a few people plan it and hardly anyone sticks to a plan. You can search around and find people telling you front leavers wont give you tension, pull ups are a waste of time running is too catabolic, lock off training is inefficient, bachar ladders hurt you, weights make you too big, campusing is for fools, basically everything is shit. I am starting to think that this is because climbers are a negative bunch, who all want to spend their time hanging out on huge blocs in the desert and instead end up at Ravens Tor or Parisellas dodging the drips doing eliminates, and populating the internet. So what should punters like me do? Well "everything works but nothing works for long" is possibly the best bit of advice I have been given I think. So mix and match, try hard, keep making it harder and cross your fingers you don't get hurt is about as scientific as I am going to attempt this time.
I keep looking back at my yearly aims and I hate the fact that they are basically the same as they were at the end of 2010. So something isn't working. In fact the best season I had involved not going to sleep much and a lot of sniffing. I cant see that this is how Olympians train, so I guess there must be another reason. Maybe I was too fucked to get hung up about it, "don't think, feel" all that shit. You can tell you have lost your way when 1-5-8 becomes the highlight of your year I mean its not even 1-5-9 for fucks sakes.
Anyway I think I am going to have a rest try to train, and crush the shit out of 3 projects in the next couple of
months. Then the weather will turn it will be cold and crisp, and I can start to work the next ones like a rat on a wheel...
Rethink the whole thing.
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