Merry new year

Well the snow has melted and left behind a world of dampness to ruin the fun for a little while. Strange deeds have been afoot in chez Nodder, after being pretty much nailed to a pouch of tobacco for 20 years I am 10 days clean. Given the fact that I am still counting the hours (and in fact the minutes) success or failure could go either way at present.


Before the weather turned it was lovely up here, I went down to Jerry's to put in redpoints 50-60ish on Malcs Start, went well got to the porthole move 8 times rather than a normal 6 out of the ten.
Problem is:
Conditions - Perfect
Rested - Perfect
Skin - Perfect
Result - Not Perfect, still on the floor.


So there you go, occasionally you get a wake up call, I am nearly at the level I wanted to reach by this point but still no cigar (not even a roll up.) Back to the drawing board for me, figure i need more core and contact strength. Fortunately due to my smoking ban I have a lot of time to hang on a finger board and try to distract myself. I did have another good cave session, tried Louis Armstrong and was reasonably quick out the blocks on it, very close to the big move and the rest of it is sorted now. Think I will put some hours in in the Cave again, it is a great venue to improve in after all. Other than that I have been wandering round trying some projects trying to get sequences and find what I need to improve on ready for the next good weather.

Clearing the camera

In the interest of cleaning out my camera and computer here is some stuff.

Loose ends

Last week I went to the cave for the first time in ages. It has been so long that I actually enjoyed myself in there. The wind was incredible blowing straight off the sea and into the caves. The cruel truth is that when I was a cave regular my ego got in the way so if at any point I failed on something that I had done before I went into a chronic spiral of sulk. This time I was expecting to fail, so it was nice to quickly get up a few problems like Lou ferrino and Bellpig. Joe had a couple of pretty good goes at Crucial times so I joined in on that, I have done this before but only with a knee bar and pocket in my left which I was happy with, but if I want to do any of the links out of it I would like to use the original sequence. Don't know why, guess its just because some of the holds I use on my other sequence seep so badly it becomes quite frustrating to work. After a little mini session I was coming close to holding the crux, just need to sort out getting my arse of the ground on the start holds.

Continuing in my ticking old problems theme I had a session on Diesel Power the other day, this problem pisses me off, I could lap to the last move for a month or so 7 years ago but I never managed to link it. Now I find it desperate, I know I am stronger and better at climbing so what happened? Well for a start on the cigarette box slot (the hold in the roof) has crumbled a bit on the right hand side which sucks ass if like me you can only fit three fingers in it, and secondly I think i have probably forgotten about the sessions I had to get it worked up to there so feel like I should be able to get there straight away. Anyway I quite enjoyed mincing around on it, hopefully I will dig in and get it done this winter at some point. I also had a session trying the Reverse Grove link on the barrel, this is stunning far better than the original barrel traverse as it actually has a defined start, think it will take a little while to link it up but happy enough to have something pretty roadside, and not a first ascent that I want to do.

Où est la flick?

It was all going so well happy in the hills with my brushes pads stashed around ready for the big winter push. My summer of route climbing seemed to have worked out quite well a much higher volume of climbing and much lower intensity of drinking than normal. The tweaks had healed up, and a mini campus obsession was returning my snap crackle and pop. You could say all was right in my world. A small moment of weakness and a large session in the fricsan and suddenly the flame flickered and died. The Jetta blew its head gasket and money troubles never far away were back to the top of my list of priorities.

The next few weeks were a great example of the worst that the Welsh weather can throw at you, sessions were spent sat in a little cave on top of the little orme, trying and failing to find my psyche. My shoulder was sore and my ability had dropped through the floor. And it had all been going so well!

Fast Forward 6 weeks, I have just spent 3 out of the last 4 days down the Caseg boulder. Now normally I avoid this bloc like the plague as each problem there has been epic. The Gimp is probably one of my least favorite problems that I know is very good, if you see what I mean. However after a decision influenced by snowy weather and time constraints it was a good call for CJD and me, so we headed down to have a play. The snow had frozen to the top of the boulder so after a warm up I installed myself under The groove sitter. After a few goes trying to catch the sloper I got CJD to push while I pulled and a funny thing happened. Because I knew he was going to push I didn't pull up bob down and slap I just kept pulling in one movement and did the move with a tiny assist, next go and boom I had found my secret for the crux. Some moves are just awesome when they go, I don't know how many times I have tried to catch that slope but I do know they are spread out over sporadic visits since it was a project. I pretty much knew then that it was on as the second step through and reach into the groove with right hand I had managed to do before. The inevitable happened and I couldn't do the next move, bugger indeed. I started to try to slap straight up with my right to the sloper directly above on Main Vein. As the day went by I sorted the rest out, and tried the two methods.

The next day I was working and daydreaming about the problem, if I could just get that move then I would be able to do a problem that I always wanted to do, and also get some confidence back to take to my projects. It was obvious the cold was here to stay for a bit and so I decided to use my time honored technique of boring it into submission. My left shoulder was still a bit sore and trying to cross into the groove with my right was hurting so I carried on trying the slap straight up. This was a much more enjoyable move to try, and also assuming that one day I magically become one of those people that think Main Vein is easy then I will have a nice link up to try. This is where the flick came in, smoking and sitting generally enjoying myself I realised that as I had got stronger I had also got worse at throwing myself around, instead of trying to be in any way in control of my body I needed to start flinging myself optimistically at the hold. Inching my way round the bulge learning the move eventually I caught the hold and was into the stand. What to do now, should I try and link the first move or save skin and muscles for tomorrow? As it was already pretty late, and I was pretty fucked I decided to save it and come back.

Le flick innit

Again the day was cold and dry, minty in fact with more wind too. After a home warm up and finger board session I drove over and stumbled my way through the drifting snow to the bloc, the wind was coming left to right (sure that's not the technical term but what the hell) so the face was in the best conditions ever seen sine the glacier put it there. After a couple of hours mincing brushing and slapping I got to the top hold, the frozen snow on top meant rocking out was impossible but to be honest this doesn't bother me. I have done the stand start to this problem dozens of times, including pissed, stoned and in bare feet. Maybe I will go back and try again but for the moment the next line and the next project is more important to me, plus the fact that I get to leave it alone without even getting bored.

Corridors of Power

Been looking at this one for some time now. Few years ago tried it and failed to move this year went back and manged to sort the sit down section out quickly, helped by one of those rare occasions when a small hold breaks and leaves a bigger one. After building up the landing and working the top section on a shunt, not so much because its high more because the landing is a raising slab behind you. By the time I had finished rolling round rocks and stuff I was able to jump of all but the last move, fortunately that wasn't too hard just wiggy. Anyway after a foiled visit in the rain I had ditched 5 pads up there so was confident that I would bounce. The original crux was the top section off a mono, then it crumbled a bit and became possible to get two fingers in. Again this was fortunate as it took it down by a good grade or so, all in all I have lost any idea how hard stuff is so basically I guess its in the region of 8A, more of a sustained ride then a particular crux move.

pppppppprojects

Well its here cool weather and time for brushes and patios. Did a nice new line last week at about 8a, and have built a landing and worked the first half of another one. The second line was really pleasing as its something I have tried before and been spanked on. This time round I could pull and the sequence is great. Stashed my pads up there so hopefully will do it next week, depends on how hard the top move is, went up with a rope and shunt defiantly the easiest way to wire something when you are out by yourself I recon. Unfortunately it was seeping and started to rain. Guess Autumn has some drawbacks. Apart from that have a new campus board at work, and been milling it up quite a bit.

Stuff and nonsence

Did a ace new traverse the other day, went on it cleaned it, worked the moves realised I was on redpoint and did it with a dab. Not bad 7c-7c+ maybe, it was getting cold and the rest of the team had trainers on ready to leave. I decided to leave it and go back, confident of a quick send. Rest day followed by a return visit cleaned some other stuff and worked the dab bit, chuck the mat away extra clearance you don't hit the ground. Start to try to link it, nails, absolutely desperate 4 hours of tweaks and sorting it out before finally doing it. 8a for sure. The question is which impression was right, if my second day on it was my first day then I wouldn't question the fact it was an 8, but it wasn't. Was it because on day one I was all keen and excited whereas day 2 was basically sorting out a technicality. Was it because day one was preceded by 2 rest days day 2 only 1? Who can tell, certainly not me. Fortunately I have time to decide cos I want to go back up there and do some more before spilling the beans. This is the stuff, the nonsense is my 16th session on project x, 3 years of occasional goes this year the progress can be measured by crux 1 easy, foot moves still impossible crux 2 take a hand off everything explodes, but I can now pull on off a single mat. Last year I needed a stack to pull into the position, progress, but painfully slow progress.

September

I have put the Kryptonite (rope) back in the cupboard and went out to the Pass the other day. Bouldering is great. I managed to get through most of Malcs Start the other day with a small push on the crux to re learn it all, think this will go this season and am really excited by that. It was good to be out in the cold, conditions were great. After a few sessions being weak I felt good in the mill and campusing the other day.

Went to Raven tor and Rubicon to finish my routing, was quite good fun, getting spanked by little holds. In the end to massage my ego I had a goo at the crux section of Keen Roof and did OK. Think that climbing is defiantly mainly about putting myself in the right frame of mind to pull hard, obviously you need to be strong enough to hold the holds, but apart from that being fresh and excited by what you are trying is the key. I lost my camera somewhere so no pictures for a while, gutted.

Speaking of gutted it seems to me that the pinch on Jerry's roof and the edge on Bus stop/Mr fantastic have both grown and become more positive, while it is possible that this is because they get cleaned and climbed on a lot more, it also seems possible that someone couldn't wait to get stronger. Last year there was some definite improvement of a couple of holds up at Moel Y Gest, as the pictures below show. So basically keep your eyes open for anything else and in the unlikely event of it being you then stop it.

The Crimp (that you shouldn't use anyway, have you not seen the pinch!) on Beatitudes Kiss,

A foothold, think this was on Life Aestthetic but could be wrong.

The Top

Well had a rest day before trying Stark this week and got to the top, which was nice. This is the first 8a route I have done so that was good. Spent the rest of the session cleaning, heading back next week at some point for a lesson in bolting with PH. Once I get to grips with that there are a couple of things that I would quite like to put bolts in finance permitting. Its also cooling down nicely time for a bit of bouldering in a few weeks I think. Time toget ready for the winter projects.

The Balance

Its tricky this climbing business. At present I am caught up in the idea of trying to get fitter. This means I have been doing lots and lots of circuits hundreads of moves, this is fun, I like being tired and feeling like I am putting the effort in. I am quite lucky to work in a climbing wall where my boss is not a cock, so if its empty I can climb. Then I have my four days off, this is where it gets tricky see. My ego wants me to rest so i will climb better when I go outside. Last week I really wanted to red point Stark, chatting to Doylo he recommended a rest day, then crushing would follow. I could see his point but thought wouldn't it be better if I could train and still crush. Cocky see. Anyway I wasn't sure to find anyone to hold the string, the weather was dubious, it may be seeping, blah blah so resting wasn't part of the plan. In the end I found Joe and he was keen, I halved my training day as a compromise. Arriving at Pigeons it was half dry if optimism is your thing, mostly damp if you like reality. Dogging up to get the draws in and check the holds reality set in the top section was shit and slimy and one hold was just plain unusable, I came up with another sequence so I could do it without that hold and set about the link. Five times up to the last throw but no joy, at best I had the boss in my hand but too low so I got a handfull of slime for my troubles. Leaving I was dissapointed, my over convidence had convinced me that basicly I would be able to overcome the adverse conditions by being stronger than I needed to be, in reality I wasn't. I might have been but not on the seventh day on a few thousand moves down. Hey ho, the pre Diamond goal wasn't going to be done, but at least I stuck to the plan.

Drying

I have spent the last month trying this line at Pigeons cave, its really pretty, a short wall into a curving line of undercuts just to the right of Stark. Only problem is its right in the middle of the seepage line straight down from the road. For PLAN A: I dogged up and pulled mud and moss off it, still wet but you could see the holds now, PLAN B: was to ab in and clear the lip of the roof from moss and grass, thus making it quicker to dry. This took two attempts the first ending with a scary pendulum across the cave when it turned out i was stood on not solid rock but dangling turf. Since then I have had 3 more visits and got precisely nowhere. Don't think it dries ever so its on to PLAN C: give up. So if anyone happens to be down there and its dry, I thoroughly recommend it the moves are awesome.


Got a few days off and the weather looks good, so think i will try to get out a few more times before sacking routes off for the winter and trying to get strong. The routeing experiment has worked well, I am so keen to go bouldering now. Normally by this point i am mega pissed off with bad conditions so have retreated to party mode. This year I have only been out properly 4 or 5 times since Christmas, mind you pretty keen on a blow out too...

Stuff

Went down to have another play on Stark with James and Doylo yesterday, first go I got to the little backhand before the crux move, I then tried the top a bit before getting to the same place a few more times. Doylo smiled because of Jacks new beta making a hard move into an easy move, he got half a move further than me so I must try harder.


Before we went down there we had a dog up Simon Says in the split infinty caves, this is quite good and very handy due to the restrictions elsewhere on the Orme. Got the crux section sorted and did it from the first roof to the last roof in one, James and Doylo were not that keen though so I stripped it to go back another time.

CJD back on Under Pressure, no ticky for you... I tried to link the Full Traverse and fumbled a bit falling on the last hard section before jugs a few times. Neither of us were particularly keen so we ran of for a drink.

Went down to Cheedale with CJD and Jack, we cunningly decided to warm up by doing the Lockless Monster as there was no one else in the Nook, and it looked piss. I did it then Jack spent the day tickling the jug. To pass the time CJD and I started working Theoria I spent the rest of the afternoon taking my boots off and saying I wasnt going to try it anymore, then putting them back on and scrabling in the dirt a bit more. After a while I started taking awesome pictures from in the tree. I then managed to get it all wrong and delete 2 years worth a pictures off my camera. Fool.

Ups and downs

Me on (possible 2nd asscent?) Under Pressure at Devis Gorge/Pantymwyn.

CJD on Poppys move, his unrepeted 8a+/8b at Craig Pont Y Pant. Pull on...

Slap...

Nearly.

Been continuing in the quest of bolt clipping, highpoints include Bad boy (got to be one of the best things I have climbed) and finally going to find the Magic Flute/Hole of Creation after years of wanting to. Low points include various bad days of sulkiing at the bottom of crags because my ego is taking a bashing. Been out bouldering a couple of times too, went to Poppys Move with CJD, I got spanked he was suprisingly close. I got my own back by crushing him on Mules Under Pressure at Pantymwyn/Devis Gorge. I thought this was an excelent problem, although not much to look at the moves were awesome. Initally I was made up as I thought I was going to session it, but after dropping the last move a couple of times it was a sure thing for the next session. Or so I thought I then managed to jump past the jug to the right or left of the jug or just below the jug for 8 attempts, in the end it went first go of my third session. Still not bad considering I have only bouldered 4 times since early June.

Boulderers go clipping

Mainly been out and about at Llandulas this week, keeping on with the routing. It's definitely a much better plan for me then trailing round doing the same boulder problems every summer getting midged and being frustrated by grease. Plus its awesome to be a total punter, every time I go out I am learning a little bit more and getting ticks. I have tried Doylo's Proj with him, awesome fun, looking forward to another go soon. Here is a photo of Mudjekeewis courtesy of Si.


In Ojibwe mythology, Mudjekeewis (from the Anishinaabe language majiikiwis "first-born son") is a spirit, and figures prominently in their storytelling, including the story of the world's creation. In their Aadizookaanan (traditional stories), Majiikiwis is the first-born son of the E-bangishimog, the West Wind, and is cast as the guardian of tradition and ceremonies, symbolized by the bear. Of the medicinal plants, white cedar is associated with Majiikiwis. He is the eldest brother to Nanabozo.
However, in The Song of Hiawatha based on the aadizookaanan, Mudjekeewis is portrayed instead as E-bangishimog himself, ravishing Wenohna and fathering Hiawatha. However, even in The Song of Hiawatha, Mudjekeewis is strongly associated with bears as demonstrated in the passage

"He had stolen the Belt of Wampum
From the neck of Mishe-Mokwa,
From the Great Bear of the mountains,
From the terror of the nations,
As he lay asleep and cumbrous
On the summit of the mountains,
Like a rock with mosses on it,
Spotted brown and gray with mosses."


Put in a session on Greenheart last night, was good reminded myself of all the beta and foot moves, hopefully this time when I get to the Beaver Cleaver jug, I will be recovering as opposed to getting tireder. Jack made a comedy move last night, he forgot to take the draws with him on Breck Road, not quite as bad as my forgetting to tie in at Kilnsey, but really quite high levels of punterdom.

Photos

The Orme

Parry Bros on Utopia

Whoever you are your a Twat

There's a fly in my beer

Nice V6, The Ramp at Coed Y Doctor

so tired

I'm so tired, I haven't slept a wink
I'm so tired, my mind is on the blink
I wonder should I get up and fix myself a drink
No,no,no.

I'm so tired I don't know what to do
I'm so tired my mind is set on you
I wonder should I call you but I know what you would do



Except for the fact that Paxi style training is what is making me tired that sums it up nicely. I had a rest day last week. So that I would be fresh(er) for Pools apart from that its been a while. One bottle of wine to celebrate and I was slaugtered, what the fuck? Guess I haven't been drinking much. It feels good though, going home broken and battered, I like it. Makes me feel like I am trying hard. Yep, still some way off 2500 moves a day but its only the first week of endurance training. My masterplan is to get it together for August as the Diamond looks very pretty, and not falling for the normal, its too hot lets go to the pub summer should:

a- save me a fortune
b- mean I don't have to start from so low, again in Autum

So that's seven weeks not very long for a scheme, but I want September to top up power ready for Autumn projects then probably back to the mill for the rainy bit that will come some time in Dec-Feb before a sending spree in spring. I was supposed to start a few weeks ago, but getting on Pools and suddenly realising it was going to let me in set back the plan. Still being adaptable is an important part of the game I suppose.

Pool of Bethesda

Its just 19 days short of a full 9 years since I did Jerry's Roof for the first time, this was one of my first hard problems in Wales. The first time I went out climbing we did Noah's Warning on the Cromlech and seeing the chalk on this roof, I asked what went on, but basically we didn't know. I remember driving up to work on Jerry's but seeing Jerry himself there trying Pools so running away. Higg did the first ascent of Pools in January 2001 so I must have been trying it for a while (some things never change when ambition outstrips ability). A bit later Malc came and crushed it and added his own start. I remember being blown away by the fact that he could turn up and dispatch it so quickly, guess I had a lot to learn about what being strong actually meant.


The following year I did Bus Stop, then 3 years after that I linked the 2 together in my longest (and most punterish) siege ever, to make the 2nd ascent (1st after loss of crucial foothold) of Mr Fantastic. I remember being under there just after a fairly massive relationship fail. Full of boiling hatred for the world. That was the first time my mother was diagnosed with cancer. The things bits of rock can help you deal with. Apres the successful ascent Hock and I went into Bangor for a celebration, got twatted and broke into the Union through a series of windows and back doors before popping out behind the bar, and entering the worst kind of student night ever. The following morning I was supposed to meet Al Hughes up there so he could film it, think he was used to a higher degree of professionalism than someone turning up hammered and stinking just about able to do the moves.


Later spotting Ug on it, he flew through the move to the porthole, before being unable to sort the next bit out, using the Higg sequence. If we had found the sequence that Pete used to get his foot up, I think he would probably have done it, and it could have been his first 8a and +. Although at the time he assured me it couldn't be harder than 7c+ if he could do it.

So now its my turn, I have finished off one of my main bouldering aims, and climbed one of the best hard problems in Wales. Its been a long decade of trying, lots of things have changed, people coming and going, but always I go back to that leaning block to see whats happening. The cancer is back, so there you go. There is a lot more to bouldering than ticking, sometimes you just need somewhere to hide.

Cheers to CJD who has spotted me on all these problems and has a firm belief that we are dead good at bouldering which helps. When I find the bloody lead that attatches the camera to computer ther are some photos.

The unthinkable

I once watched Ug on Pools of Bethesda, he was catching the porthole numerous times and failing to get his right foot up due to fucked hips. I felt so sorry for him, as as far as I was concerned it was over at that point. Fast forward a few years and finally I am getting close to the move, its going to go. Forward to a Saturday night later in the week, finish work at 7.30 its cold so i sprint up to the Pass from the wall, jump on Jerrys and Bus Stop for a warm up, clean the spuff of a thousand people of the holds. J rat drives past on the way home for Kilnsey he stops to give me a spot, close again reckon on 2 or 3 more sessions get very excited. Forward another week and I do the move and have a little jig around the dusty floor whooping. Then the unthinkable I fall off after the porthole move 6 times. No way. She will go, cool as, just need some better weather, at this point not really fussed about not doing it as its been so long to do the move that this feels better than most top outs I have ever done. The end point doesn't matter to me for today. Next week again with CJD I throw and throw catch the porthole another 6-8 times fail higher up he says its hotter I think its cooler, who knows. It reminds me of sitting there playing games with myself trying to redpoint Mr Fantastic with a thermometer having a go when it cools down. A bit frustrated that day I just wanted to do it forgot about the fun, but there you go. Wales eh, if its not too hot its too wet or maybe as always these excuses, if I was stronger it wouldn't matter. Apart from the fact that I know the roof always has a good spell later in the summer, when the wind comes down the Pass and the only problem with conditions is stopping the mats taking out cars as they blow into the road I would be disturbed. Wonder how long it will be? Trying to be positive but kind of want to get fit as I have been out with a rope and that seems to be quite a lot of fun too. Terrified that I will stop being strong enough and the conditions will improve. Plus this all feels a bit fluky, hey ho, there we go. I keep thinking I should head up there in the morning before work but know from past attempts on stuff this is nearly pointless, I climb like a retard till I have been awake for a few hours, the only good morning sessions have been when I haven't been to sleep, is this the answer become nocturnal?. Ah Pools, come to me, heal the sick and the lame.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pool_of_Bethesda

back once again

Well after a good start to the year ticking projects off my never ending list I was tiered of trying hard and concentrating on being good and healthy so I sacked it off and got good and drunk for a bit. While I was doing this it seemed like a good plan to go and do some routes, its nice to go out and get to the top most of the times you pull on, slightly less enjoyable to be terrified on routes that I have soloed in the past. Still all in all its a good but slow process that I am looking forward to carrying on during the scorching summer that is sure to be coming our way. Even CJD has been forced to join in albeit after a few drinks, steaming his way up Mental Lentils for his first lead in about 15 years.

CJD on Mental Lentils

Confused on the Medium

Utopia Traverse on a sunny day

I also visited the cave this week, only climbed in there a couple of times in the last year, it was nice to be back and I had a reasonable degree of psyche for some of the problems again. I really would like to finish off Clyde this year as it taught me more then just about any problem I have ever tried. Managed to do the moves the other day, had to fight the memory of hundreds of failed goes pretty much instantly so kept the session on it relatively short.

Been on Pools of Bethesda twice last week, a new level of closeness to holding the pocket has appeared, I am hoping to get it done before the heat arrives, we will see Ive been fooled into thinking I was close before.

Also been looking through http://www.rockarchivist.co.uk/ at some of the write ups of what have become classics here are some of them, quite funny how things have changed.

Started training again for Autum, not going on trips has really focused me on the things I want to climb in Wales. So lots of Mill and Indy to take it up a level.

Out and About...

Frank at the Bowderstone.


Self-handicapping is described as an action or choice which prevents a person from being responsible for failure. It was first theorized by Edward E. Jones and Steven Berglas, according to whom self-handicaps are obstacles created, or claimed, by the individual in anticipation of failing performance. Self-handicapping behaviour allows individuals to externalise failures but internalise success; accepting credit for achievements, but allowing excuses for failings. Self-handicapping can be seen as a method of preserving self-esteem but it can also be used for self-enhancement. People may self-handicap to manage the impressions of others, or of themselves.

Says it all really don't think I have ever been to the Bowderstone with a decent nights sleep or without being under the influence. Wonder what it is I am afraid of.



CJD on Slapstick, again at the Bowderstone.

The phrase comes from the battacchio—called the 'slap stick' in English—a club-like object composed of two wooden slats used in Commedia dell'arte. When struck, the battacchio produces a loud smacking noise, though little force is transferred from the object to the person being struck. Actors may thus hit one another repeatedly with great audible effect while causing very little actual physical damage. Along with the inflatable bladder (of which the whoopee cushion is a modern variant), it was among the earliest special effects that a person could carry.




CJD and Katz trying Little Women in Kentmere. Looks really good, Chris was obsessing with the dirty crimp, of the original sequence or G'equence as it is referred to. Unfortunately he has eaten too many pies since becoming a real member of society and working in a proper job. Mark was looking good quickly doing all the moves apart from the crux, at one point stopping to inform us that he was a strong little bastard.

I was busy on Tourniquet which I managed to do from 3 moves in to the end in about 30 minute's before failing to redpoint it by consistently forgetting where my feet were supposed to be until I was fucked. Its very good though. Bit too much self handicapping on the way there. Still I do like Rocky, the film obviously.

Katz on The Karma of the Trees, again at Kentmere, again could have should have would have etc.

CJD on Caveman, A nice 7c+ on the top of the Little Orme, well nice if you like that Rubicon type of limestone.

Sub Society at the Cromlech I look particularly un-arsed about pulling on it, didn't like it before I did it now I can justify slagging it off. Its shit.

Jack fertilizing the Orme. A pleasant day at Lower Empire swinging round on jugs, I thought I had got better at climbing above bolts and stuff, then I realised I just hadn't tried anything I couldn't hold on to most of the holds with one hand should I go mad and let go. Still its fun trying, change is as good as a rest and all that. I do hate resting, find it terribly habit forming, generally they are bad habits too.


The Lotus, yes at last. Found this desperate, been on it at least 10 times in the last 10 years, remember being really excited to find a sequence I could do about 5 years ago, its been a visit a year since then pretty much, last time I did it from two moves in on the big jug. That was about November and I promised myself to go up again before I forgot what to do on it. This time it was sent quickly.

James on Jerry's Problem at the sheep pen, now I have done the Lotus I think I will make this my new bastard problem of the hills. Fucking gorgeous up there too warm by far for hard climbing but had a nice time on this and working the end of Kingdom of Pain.

This weeks Skin Report, its CJD and he's skinned his knuckles again.