Saturday, 4 February 2012


About 8 ish years ago some cunt burnt all the road building materials under a little cave know as Roadrunner, this set the hillside on fire and ruined the cave.  We went looked and left, never again would we sit getting stoned by the busiest road in North Wales between bouts of going up or down round and round with occasional Police visits asking what the hell we were up to. I was an addict more involved in there than I have ever been with any other bit of rock before or since.  Shortly before the burning I was swinging off the top of Diana From 3 separate starts the sit, an un-repeated 8a+ , at the time (probably only 8a really).  A reverse of the traverse V8 into said V12, and The Kung Foo Start again About V11/12.  Then the roadmen came, and work started for mouths on the tunnel or something, I went for a look but it was all dusty with roadwork ming.  Never mind I thought, they will fuck off soon and I will go back clean it and finish them all, it will be great.  Only it was not meant to be.  The bastards couldn't be arsed to clean up properly so chucked a match on it, imagine that , most of the time you walk away from your project thinking "its not going anywhere" well 3 of mine did, plus a few hundred hours of working moves. The shield to the right of Diana, we had only just started to progress on it, now it was gone.

Fast forward to about 3 -4 years ago I decided to clean it out, a few trips later it was in a climbable state, but I never finished it, this summer I went back and tried again, I re climbed the lines that were Diana, The Chauffeur and Beep.  The rock is still cracking but I came to a point where I realised that the more  I attacked it with a hammer all I was going to get was more cracking.  Then I realised it was always a bit chossy anyway.  The corner to the right fell down and in theory ruined the traverse before years before I ever climbed there.  Anyway I write this because someone was interested in finishing the job, good luck to them I say, I would like to think I would put the effort in but in all honesty if I was going to do it I would have finished it by now.   Here is some footage of the latest incarnation of the cave:

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